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Nova Scotia - unfinished business


Fog, trees and adventure is what comes to mind when reflecting on our 10 days in Nova Scotia Canada. Our introduction to Nova Scotian waters was 24 hours of dense fog, thank goodness for radar and that it is not the season for the fishing pots.!

Other than fog our two day sail to Halifax was uneventful and due to our New Zealand flag we were given “royal status” at the down town dock, berthed in the middle of the museum. It was hard to go on deck and not be engaged in a

conversation with the passers by who all wanted to know about our adventure.

After a couple of days exploring the seafront, biking around the local parks, testing the local brew and giving Saorsa a good clean, we set forth down the Nova Scotian coast line to visit the lovely Kirsten Gilkerson the mum of the commodore of the Beverly yacht club, ( Jack) who we had met in Marion.

Kirsten lives in Mahone Bay on Martins River with her own 12m Herrashoff moored at the end of the garden. It is a perfect place to anchor and what a splendid night we had. Kirsten and her granddaughter Elly were a delight to be with and I came away feeling we had just touched the tip of an iceberg in learning about Kirsten and her late husbands adventures, a fabulous up beat lady who oozed positive energy in a reserved and elegant way. Armed with a couple of her late husbands books Mags and I nearly cried leaving the beautiful anchorage. It was at this point I promised myself – I shall return to Nova Scotia and perhaps further north next time.

We popped to another beautiful place – Lunenburg, a bit more of a town, but the seafront looked like a Scandinavia village, very colourful and peaceful. After another overnight expedition in the fog we arrived at Yarmouth – my goodness the fog was dense, but it was comforting to be speaking to Yarmouth traffic information on the radio.

The morning brought bright sunshine and a weekend of classic vehicles and live music – how lucky were we. Mags son, Rupert was arriving at Halifax airport so we hired a car for a couple of days to explore Nova Scotia a bit more and pick him up at the same time. A perfect time to get out and about and off we ventured to Kejimkujeck National Park. A walk followed by a real Canadian canoeing experience in the wilderness. We loved it so much that we returned with Rupert the following day and hired some kayaks for more canoeing.

Due to our planned adventures we had to find accommodation for the night, – I may not be using AIR B&B again for a while. Due to timescales and our requirement to be more or less enroute our options were limited, but hey, ho it was just one night! We booked a house that had three bedrooms and looked ok on the pictures.

Thanks to Google maps we arrived at the said location to see a “for sale”sign outside the ramshackled gate. Up the potholed drive we ventured to be faced with an old truck covered in green moss parked outside the locked and tumbling down garage. As we opened the front door a musty smell greeted us, searching for the old light switches we just had to laugh – it was like something from a horror movie, complete with a rattly old boiler room. Mags put her white shorts and shirt into the washing machine and after making hideous noises, they came out all rust coloured! However, the sheets were clean and beds were comfortable, but sleep was not good as you just kept thinking a mad axe man would soon by hacking away at the front door.

Anyway we survived , enjoyed the trip along the coast to see the 50ft tides, tasted some local wines and had a great canoe trip the following day.

Our final task in Yarmouth was to gain pre authorisation to re enter America. After several phone calls back and forth – Rupert ( Mags son), was described as an illegal Alien and it became apparent that for us to get him from Canada to the US he would have to walk across the boarder. Don’t you just love sailing, that is what we did, we dropped him off on the Canadian boarder at Lubec and picked him up the other side – now a legal Alien!.

All fully approved to enter the US we now put Nova Scotia behind us and headed for the Maine coast.- I will be back.

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